I think it fair to say that this blog does offer a slightly male-biased view of the world. That is unsurprising: I am male, and this blog is about how I see things.
That said, I do take an interest in fashion. I actually subscribe to the online version of Vogue (it's £12 a year). I don't do so because I buy such fashion. I suspect that is pretty obvious. I have, however, for decades thought that fashion reflects the public mood. Looking at where it is going is a very strong indicator of where the economy might be following. Danny Blanchflower would call this a part of the 'economics of walking about'. For that same reason, I observe people in the street: their collective style says a lot about how we feel.
In this context, an email arrived in this household from H&M yesterday, advertising its latest, more upmarket collection. This is a screenshot from that mail:
The message is surprising. Of the three skirts on view, two are short. That might suggest a degree of optimism not yet apparent in the economy. I have long believed that there is a marked correlation between the distance between the hems of skirts and the ground and the economic mood of people. They go higher together. And on the street, they are very long right now.
On the other hand, look at the colours. They are dark, sombre, depressing and downbeat. That's the message I am taking from this. There really is very little optimism in the economy if colour has disappeared from the palettes of fashion chains.
This proves nothing, of course, except for one thing. These fashion houses spend a great deal of time trying to work out what colours to offer. H&M seem to be reflecting a wider view on this issue. The mood is decidedly downbeat. I have no idea where Rachel Reeves thinks growth is going to come from in that case: the signs of it happening are not out there.
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There is a film just out on the life of Lee Miller best known as the Vogue War Correspondent
Lee
It shows that British Vogue at least was once about more than fashion
Sometimes it still has the odd article that is worth reading.
I love fashion – I still think this year there’s plenty to confirm Taylor’s hemline index theory. A big variation of hemlines among designers including midi and prim just below the knee – lots of loose trousers and voluminous trench coats. Fashion is art and designers can show narratives in their work that reflect what’s going on in the world. Not that I can afford designer! I’m more dash than cash – sewing my own clothes and buying from charity shops
I am fascinated by fashion because it is, as you say, a way of projecting ideas. It also has its own Overton Windows, moving the frames 8n which things can be seen. That is why it’s worth watching.
And I have a wife who likes style, but definitely not on designer budgets.
Somebody asked why I know about capsule wardrobes recently. I have a good teacher and I pay attention.
“The Hemline Index was first proposed by economist George Taylor in 1926.
Taylor observed that women’s skirts tended to be shorter during prosperous economic times, while hemlines dropped during periods of economic downturn. His theory suggested that the length of women’s skirts could be used as a predictor of economic health.”
Source: https://glenmont.co/hemline-index-the-relationship-between-fashion-and-economy/
I agree with him and have done since the ‘70s, when I was probably had more than just economic interest in the issue.
“The theory is often incorrectly attributed to economist George Taylor in 1926. Taylor’s 1929 thesis ‘Significant post-war changes in the full-fashioned hosiery industry’, which identified skirt length as one factor that led to explosive growth in the hosiery industry during the 1920s, did not propose a hemline theory.”
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemline_index
Rachel Reeves wearing a red dress is the complete opposite of the gloomy economic message she is promoting.
An old parvenue concept springs to mind:
“All fur coat an’ nae knickers”.
We weren’t at all prosperous in the ’60s and our skirts were extremely short then and colourful. It was, however, an amazing and fun time even if we were pretty skint.
Not only are the clothes sombre colours but, as far as I can gather, so are people’s houses. Around where I live, there’s a lot of grey inside and outside. Grey interiors and people staining their red tile roofs grey. It’s pretty depressing especially when it’s coupled with grey block driveways as well.
In the UK the predominant colour for children’s school uniforms is a drab black. The only positive in this dismal choice is that they do not require any other clothes to attend a funeral! How to extinguish hope at the very start of life. I saw a small group of London school children wearing an uplifting blend within their uniform and felt compelled to remark: “Brighter colours – Brighter minds”. Both the children and teachers responded enthusiastically to my comment. This was a rare exception to the current depressing norm, but why?
There was some colour variation when I was in school; navy and maroon were popular. The uniform at my first school went from maroon and gray to a bold selection of stripes in order not to be confused with a local state school. Our striped blazers were very distinctive: no other school tried to copy us. I firmly believe that colours shape our moods. We know that children respond to the bold primary colours in their toys; why should this be consciously extinguished in school?
Having traveled all over the world I am impressed by the volume of colour worn by populations in so many of the places that I visited. For me the single most appreciated input of tho many who have migrated to the UK from former colonies, remains the injection of colour into everything from fashion to home decor. However the domestic population still ternatiously cling to their drab attire and bland interior design featuring the ubiquitous ‘Magnolia’ beige.
There have been studies on the effects of colour on our moods. “Color psychology is the study of how different colors affect human mood and behavior. It explores how colors can influence emotional responses, as well as how responses to color are affected by factors such as age and cultural background.” One of many references that support what I am presenting. A prison in the US painted all of their interior walls pink to reduce violence among their convicts.
As a mature citizen I am expected to tone down the colour palet of my dress, but I stubbornly refuse. Looking back on a time when I was seriously depressed, after being targeted as a whistlblower, my clothing was rather drab. Now my home is a blaze of colour to lift my spirits, my wheelchair is bright red and my clothing defies the conventional norn, especially for a person of my advanced years. Try wearing colour; it will lift your spirits and make you feel upbeat, even as our future is being obliterated by greedy politicians.
My wife I’d wearing very bright red right now, and a denim skirt several inches above the knee
If the world does not like it, her message to them is ‘tough’
The demand that we conform to norms is oppressive
Look out for new cars in what I call neoliberal grey.
It’s the most popular new car colour in the UK, particularly the monochrome shade….I’m sure you’ll notice them all now…… https://www.smmt.co.uk/2024/01/more-motorists-go-green-but-grey-is-still-the-colour-of-choice/
I have of late
It is very strange
I attempt to make a lot of my own clothes and it’s very interesting to note that the fabrics available are often very colourful. We are certainly not restricted to the bland palette on display at H & M. Interestingly, many of the independent pattern designers issue very shapeless patterns which lots of people love.
“The message is surprising. Of the three skirts on view, two are short.”
Short skirts have only one purpose and that is to attract the attention of men.
H&M has always marketed to the 18-45 year old single middle class female who wants fast fashion one notch above Target & Walmart and spends a great deal of time in pubs, clubs and/or at drinks parties..
Take a look at the Victoria Beckham collection marketed to the upper class in both the USA and UK and you will see the same neutral colors for Fall 2024 and Winter 2025 but the designs are very different.
https://us.victoriabeckham.com/
Indeed
Much longer to make my point
I am just glad you are taking an interest in fashion.
I am sure your wife looks really good in her above-the-knee denim skirt!
[…] By Richard Murphy, part-time Professor of Accounting Practice at Sheffield University Management School, director of the Corporate Accountability Network, member of Finance for the Future LLP, and director of Tax Research LLP. Originally published at Fund the Future […]
The Economics of Fashion. Keir Starmer knows a thing or two about that just pick up the phone to Lord Alli! Then lie on receipt of money freebie that it was nothing to do with fashion!
https://www.theguardian.com/politics/2024/sep/27/peer-gave-keir-starmer-more-clothes-worth-16000-declared-as-money-for-private-office
Is somebody somewhere keeping a list of Starmer lies like those of Trump?
Peter Oborne, I hope
Re Starmer’s wardrobe financing, last Sunday’s National had an article by Andrew Tickell (a lawyer who lectures at Glasgow Caledonian University) which contained this gem: ” ….a man who can’t dress himself without corporate sponsorship.”
Agreed
I read it
The prime-minister’s and cabinet ministers’ clothes and other expenses that are not met by government allowances should be met out of general party funds and where appropriate means tested according to party rules. This would help to avoid the contagion of bribery.
Why?
Because willingness to accept bribes is part of human fraility!
Okay it’s a FIAT Ad but metaphorically what Labour could do. https://youtu.be/uWLX94pzYVk
I like it
Shame it’s a Fiat
Not a good memory for me
Ah! Cars! Now we are into an area of expertise I can discuss (I read this blog because I am woefully ignorant of financial matters but am improving no end thanks to Richard and contributors).
Fiats: I’ve had several in my 90 some cars in my time. Love em, their frequent habit of having things fall off is irritating but they are still useful and fun to drive while they last. In Italy, the cops drive Fiats and Alfas, the Mafia drive Mercedes’, is in any wonder their country seems to have such a well-developed criminal caste?
Regarding car colours. The dull non-colours have been in the ascendency for some time (since the previous crash/recession at least), but I have recently noticed appearing among the dark blues, white, silver and gunmetal shades, a number of very new cars (mostly German – is their economy hurting more than most?) of a non-colour that can only be described as polished zinc primer. I’d guess its meant to convey a sense of understated luxury, but being old, it just says ‘banger’ to me! Car manufacturers have a longer lead time than clothing fashion so don’t expect a sudden influx of red or yellow cars just yet.
Fashion: In better times, trouser cuffs get wider, male head hair gets longer, facial hair disappears, and that ultimate fashion disaster – grey shoes – will languish unsold in the shops (my daughter is a professional fashionista and also a Vogue subscriber and keeps me up-to-date on what I should, but don’t, wear).
🙂
I have long thought that greys are best suited to ships of the line and their ilk. A personal view of course but I don’t want to see it in homes or available as the predominant colour of fashion save for dark charcoal for those moments or places which require it. Why? It’s negative, depressing, hopeless…….Spitting Image made a point……..Shapeless in grey is troubling;, negative, depressing, hopeless and I fear it will drag a nation down with it. Things are bad enough without further assistance from the fashion industry.